Planning on buying a new car soon?
Would you be in the market for a new car anytime soon? Could you use a few suggestions as to how best to save some money? A new car is likely the second biggest expense the average citizen will ever have. And being a car guy, who's had sooooo many of them, I might be able to help. Read on...
It's surprising that so few 'Muricans know how our car business is structured. How it actually works. So here are a few facts you can take to the bank. Or to your credit union, so as to have pre-approved financing in your pocket when you finally visit the dealer.
And by "finally," try and avoid actually going to the dealer until you've cut the deal. First, get an "Out the Door" price. Including the car's price, with taxes, fees and add-ons. With no discussion about used car trade-ins. If you do this you'll be MILES ahead.
And speaking of dealers, car dealers in 'Murica, with exception of Tesla, which sells direct to consumer, are all customers of the manufacturers. The manufacturer, Ford, Chevrolet, Toyota, Honda, Porsche, etc., make the cars. They then sell them at wholesale to their dealer network. Who then attempt to sell them at retail to you and me and our neighbors.
At the greatest possible profit possible.
There are now about 19,900 dealers in America. Who have about 2,900,000 cars on hand as this is written. Sitting on their lots. Costing them interest. Representng about an 87 day supply at current rates of sale. That's a lot of cars, and a lot of days. Think about that.
And by "retail," I mean the MSRP. Or, "Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price." You'll find the sticker on the window of each new car expressing that price. Most of us tend to call ths the "Sticker Price."
It tells you the basic MSRP of the car, plus all the extras. The extra prices for special interior options, for a larger engine, for fatter tires and larger wheels, for a better suspension, for the special sound system, etc. Each of these options has a retail price, which, when added to the basic price, gives you your total. It's shown as the bigger, bolder price at the bottom right hand of what's usually called the "Moroney" sticker. That's the price against which your negotiation begins.
Each manufacturer has its own dealer network. When the new car Ford or Chevy or Toyota builds and rolls off the car hauler at the dealer, what's called the "Floor Plan" begins. That's when the loan the dealer takes out on each car against the MSRP begins in effect.
Most of the manufacturers have their own finance companies. That's the manufacturer which owns the lender "buying" the car from the dealer at 95% - 100% of the MSRP. It makes the cars, then sells them to their dealers by loaning them money to buy them. Sort of a circular arrangement, don't you think?
The manufacturer makes the cars - sells the cars to the dealers - then loans the dealers money to buy them back from the manufacturers at interest, called the "Floor Plan." Whew!
The "floor plan" usually begins in effect from 15 - 45 days from the delivery to the dealer. Giving the dealer time to sell the cars before any interest payments begin. Then it is charged on each car at the going interest rate, usually 6.5% - 7%, plus 200 - 400 basis points. Or, on the average $50,000 new car, figure about $360 per month. So, simply stated, the longer the dealer has that new car on his lot, the more he has in interest payments invested in that car. And the more likely he will discount the car to end the expensive floor plan costs. Good to know if you can find out how long its been there. And there are ways to find that out.* More on that later.
So simply stated, if the dealer can sell all his cars within a month or so of delivery, he'll suffer no interest payments on those cars. Thus, his profit margin will markedly increase. In other words, it pays him to move his cars really fast. Meaning, it pays him to sell his cars at or near his invoice price in direct competition to other dealers to move the iron fast and avoid interest costs. Think of this as additional profit.
The salesman's job is to sell you the car, and at the greatest gross profit margin possible (many are paid as a % of gross profit). As a general rule, the salesman will make between $200 and $1,200 per sale. Sometimes if the car is sold at break even or even a loss, the salesman will still earn what's called a "mini," or minimum commission. Usually about $150 - $200 per car. Also good to know if you're negotiating.
Now then, the dealer will pay the manufacturer from 2% to 15% less than its MSRP. That's the difference between his wholesale price and your retail. A Porsche dealer may only get a 3% discount (their purchasers are comfy with paying retail), whereas a Nissan dealer may get 15%. Got it? Plus, what are called "hold backs," which are volume sales payments and special end of year stuff known only to the dealers and their manufacturers. That's how the dealer can make money even selling a new car at cost. Or even at a loss.
Now then, how does a dealer make money if he sells cars at a minimum profit? Simple. He makes money on your trade-in. He buys it from you at whlolesale, and sells it to your neighbor at retail. The difference is his profit. And the price of used cars have no "Moroney" stickers on the window. It's much harder to value used cars, whether taking them from you as a trade-in, or selling it to your neighbor. Such things as age, condition, miles, valuable options, desirability, etc., may increase (or decrease) the used car's value.
So the dealers' used car lot is a MAJOR profit generator. My advice is to visit CarVana and CarMax and first get an offer to buy your used car. Don't sell it to them, just get the offer. In writing. Then take that offer with you to the new car dealer and keep it in your pocket. Then, ask for the dealers' "Out The Door" price of the car you want to buy. Don't mention your trade-in until you have their OTD price. Then, bring up the used car and negotiate from your CarMax or CarVana offer. If you cannot get a good price for your car on trade at the dealer, sell it for your certified used car offer. Or even direct, although that can be a pain, and also dangerous (Make sure you have your .38 with you, loaded, if you choose to sell personally. I rent myself out as an armed bodyguard by the hour.).
Another MAJOR profit generator is the dealers' service department. They sell their mechanics' time at $100 - $150 an hour while paying them $40 - $50, plus parts at retail, so they generate BIG BUCKS fixing your out-of-warranty car. Oh yeah, and the more cars they sell, the more likely they'll get a discount on their parts, creating another profit opportunity when selling those parts to you at retail. As much as half of the dealers' profits come from their service departments.
And how long has that new car been sitting on the lot? Open the driver's door and look at the sticker on the jamb. It will tell you when the car was built. Then add about 2 months to that date to give time for it to be shipped to the dealer and the floor plan freebie to run its course. Then start computing the $360 - $400 a month the dealer's been paying for interest costs. You'll then know how better to negotiate your final price.
And lastly, all this has been the dance the dealer goes through to get you to where the real profit is made: The "F&I Office." That stands for the Finance and Insurance Office. That's where the dealer's best salesman is located and is your last stop after a long day of negotiating. That's the smallish little office with all the windows, with a desk and you and a guy with a computer. He'll start with the deal you've made with the salesman and then add an additional average of $2,500, to as much as $6,000 in profit to the sale while you're not looking.
He'll begin by charging you somewhere between $200 and $1,200 in admin "documentation" fees for preparing the sale paperwork. Which costs them probably $25 in secretarial labor. Why? Because he can. You can try and get that fee removed. Good luck. You'll probably be unsuccessful. as that's their guaranteed profit margin the dealer makes and they'll hold on to it as long as they can.
To this, the guy will try and sell you a whole bunch of mostly unnecessary crap to further sweeten their profit. Window tint. Door guards. Paint protection insurance. Nitrogen in your tires.** Interior protection plan. Pickup bed liners. Lifetime oil changes. Gap insurance (the car gets totaled. That's the difference between what your insurance company pays and what you owe on the loan). And lastly, their bank loan for the car (that's when you whip out your credit union pre-approval). They'll otherwise solicit loans from banks on your behalf, get a bevy of offers, and then try and add a point or two or three to those offers. Keeping the difference as their improved profits. Worth as much as $2,000 in increased $dollars to the dealer during the life of the loan.
Is being a dealer a good deal? Yes. Because they have so many ways of beating you into the ground. Without divulging the ways they're doing so. Especially toward the end of a hard day negotiating your new car purchase. I personally would love to see "Direct to Consumer" pricing like Tesla is doing. But until then, your best bet is to research new cars until you find exactly what you want. Stay home and call the dealers. Try and negotiate frome home. Then go into the dealer to finalize whatever deal you're able to negotiate.
Likely your research will result in your knowing more about that new car than the salesman who's trying to sell it to you. After all, they were selling vacuum cleaners last week. Do the test drive, don't smile, don't indicate your interest. After you've test driven several cars, sit in your comfy Barcalounger, open a cool one, and then start calliing dealers. Then make an offer at "X" dollars less than MSRP. Negotiate from there.
And don't stop at your neighborhood dealers. Google how many of your preferred car is available nationwide. Then call all over the place. If you can find your preferred car in Omaha, you can have it shipped to you for no more than $1,200. If you can save $5,000 from MSRP by calling around, that $1,200 is bupkus (and deductible!).
Then go into the F&I" office with your agreed upon price and pre-approved interest rate. And don't buy anything the guy has to offer. NOTHING! That's your only way of getting the best deal. He's there to screw you. And you don't want to be screwed. He'll try and sell you a package of "safety" or "convenience" or "beauty" options, usually priced about $3,000. Think of it this way: if the extra stuff they're trying to sell you needed to be on your car, wouldn't Toyota or Ford or Buick include it? Is their paint so bad it needs protecting? Same with their interior. Why would you need to pay another $50 a month to "fix" what Chevrolet just built? And multiply $50 a month times 62 or 74 or 86 months you'll be making payments and you'll realize how much those sales mean to the dealer.
Good luck. And enjoy your new ride. Unless it's a special car, like a Porsche 911, or a Mercedes G-Wagon, the very moment you drive it off the lot you'll lose somewhere around 25% - 30% off its MSRP. And by the time its 5 years old, it will be worth no more than 50% of its new price. Usually 40% - 45%. So knowing this, do not ever, EVER pay a "Mark Up" on the price of a new car (over MSRP) because it's in short supply (which it usually isn't). Or a spcialty ride, like a Corvette ZR-1. There may be only two of them in Cincinnatti, but 53 of them in the good ol' U. S. of A. You'll be throwing your money away. And right into the dealers' pocket.
And he's counting on it.
Which, finally, is my suggestion. New cars can be expected to run for 150,000 miles with few repairs. Some for 250,000 miles. Google it to find out. At an average of 10,000 - 12,000 a year, a car will have only 25 - 30,000 miles on the clock by the 3rd year, or about 45 - 50,000 miles on it by the 5th year. Buy that used car for half price. All the kinks will have been worked out by then. All the manufacturer's call backs and repairs will have been done.
It should then run famously for a dozen more years with few costs other than routine maintenance. And now that new cars are full of unnecessary gimcrackery, including buttons that will push other buttons at the sound of your voice asking them to push buttons, which you do not need, the likelyhood is you don't want all that expensive crap. It's just going to break anyway. Try and buy the best equipped used car with the fewest miles. In short, buy low miles even if you have to pay a little extra. The car will pay you back with fewer repair costs in the long run.
Example: I bought a 2013 luxury car just back from a 5-year lease as my primary ride, driven only 20,000 total miles (it was leased by the Irvine Co's CEO's wife who lived a mile from work), for $20,000. it was $46,000 new. My only expenses have been oil changes. And it's never Been back to the dealer. The dealer made very few dollars from me. And I smile about that every time I drive by his store.
In short, I love cars. I just don't love paying a dealer too much of my hard-earned money. They are there to peel you like a grape. Think of them as the enemy. And prepare yourself before you go into enemy's camp. Gird your loins. Arm yourself with knowledge. Try and outthink them. Try and stay ahead of them in their quest to take your money. Try and play chess while they play checkers. Get a cash offer on your used car. Be prepared to get up and walk out if they try and hose you. And they likely will. Trust me, they'll chase you down before you can get to your car and beg you to come back in. And then they'll lie when the truth would sound better. It's just part of their game. And so, Fellow Patriot, I trust you'll find some value in these words.
Lastly, don't allow them to take you for a ride. (that's a joke!). And finally, don't ever pay for that self-driving software. Like Tesla and GM try to sell you at a premium of $15,000, or even more. Drivng is waaaay too much fun without it! After all, if you need to be driven, it's probably cheaper (and safer!) to hire somebody to drive you...
* You can find out how long the car has been on the lot by checking with "InvoicePrice.com." Or Edmunds.com," or Kelley Blue Book's "KBB.com." Which is owned by Cox Automotive, one our largest dealer networks; Generally, the bigger the dealer, the more likely they'll be happy if you know their costs. With volume comes discount. Every day.
** An optional fee for nitrogen in your tires is one of my favorite screw jobs offered by dealers today. 78% of what's in the air you breathe is nitrogen. So why should you pay $400 or more for a bit more nitrogen? I keep wondering when they're going to try and sell us insurance against evil spells? Generated by witches who happen to be in the factory? Do yourself a favor. Look the F&I guy in the face and tell him "NO!" Then stop by the bar in your new car and celebrate!